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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Eye of Mordor
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Joel Brady 2003. Equipper Doug Reed 1996 |
Page Views: | 9,125 total · 56/month |
Shared By: | camhead on Nov 7, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.
I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.
After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.
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