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Routes in Sandworm Rock
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Master & Servant T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sandworm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Unknown (Sandworm Rock) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Scott Cole and Bruce Morris, 1980's |
| Page Views: | 1,214 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Nov 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Let's play... Master and Servant.
This is an .11d handcrack! In the center of Sandworm rock, look for the crack splitting the steep bulge, widening to OW size while mercifully keeping good hands in the back.
Steep and powerful pulling leads through the wide section before the angle eases. Reach the top on shallow flaring jams stepping right through three vertical slashes.
This could be an amazing climb but for the abysmal rock quality. The large sharp razor grains are bad enough... and then they move. The grit is showering off the inside of the crack as you jam on it. Jamming on the moving razors is a big threat to your skin. Heavy taping advised lest you risk having to take double digit rest days for skin regeneration.
It's a shame, this could clean into a huge classic, but I fear the rock is just too lousy and it will always be unpleasant.
This is an .11d handcrack! In the center of Sandworm rock, look for the crack splitting the steep bulge, widening to OW size while mercifully keeping good hands in the back.
Steep and powerful pulling leads through the wide section before the angle eases. Reach the top on shallow flaring jams stepping right through three vertical slashes.
This could be an amazing climb but for the abysmal rock quality. The large sharp razor grains are bad enough... and then they move. The grit is showering off the inside of the crack as you jam on it. Jamming on the moving razors is a big threat to your skin. Heavy taping advised lest you risk having to take double digit rest days for skin regeneration.
It's a shame, this could clean into a huge classic, but I fear the rock is just too lousy and it will always be unpleasant.
Protection
Tape and a toprope. (two bolts on top)
It's possible to lead this route with 2-4" cams, but it's an easy toprope and the rock quality is a big deterrent to the lead. The 2000 ed of the Vogel guide lists it as a TR, so it's perhaps never been led?
Use of old and/or fat rope advised. The top rounds off and falls will give your rope a big grind over very rough rock.
It's possible to lead this route with 2-4" cams, but it's an easy toprope and the rock quality is a big deterrent to the lead. The 2000 ed of the Vogel guide lists it as a TR, so it's perhaps never been led?
Use of old and/or fat rope advised. The top rounds off and falls will give your rope a big grind over very rough rock.
6 Comments