Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Dave Jones & Steve Chardon, Oct 1983
Page Views: 2,861 total · 18/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 5, 2011
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climbs the beautiful Forbidden Wall up discontinuous, thin crack systems to the top. The first pitch was originally rated A5 because it had deck potential (pre beaks). The 3rd pitch climbs the striking hand crack located just right of a small corner. There is a bivy ledge at pitch 6. This route is consistently difficult with some route finding.

This was likely the first A5 in Zion at the time. Some rurps had to be equalized on the first pitch. Chip Chase made an early solo ascent of this route.

Location Suggest change

Several hundred feet left of Forbidden corner. See topo at VC

Protection Suggest change

Wall rack with extra thin gear.

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