Logic and Proportion
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Tom Souders, Jon Dinsmore 1991 |
Page Views: | 886 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Oct 19, 2011 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Access Issue: Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites.
Details
The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.
Be aware, there may be more.
Be aware, there may be more.
Description
The crux of the route may be the tricky, but bomber gear placements. There are many v-slots, pods, and the occasional sideways nut placement. Tread lightly and check holds before weighting them. If you get off route, holds may start to break. If a rap anchor gets added, this would merit a third star.
Start just left of Sam I Am, the big left facing corner at a featured face. Look for the right most feature before the wall goes blank. Start just left and trend up and right through some big moves on the steepest part of the face (crux) to the right most feature. Move up the features with big holds on a steep face (pumpy). Follow the same feature to the top and exit on the big horn jug. Be sure to load up on gear when it presents itself.
Start just left of Sam I Am, the big left facing corner at a featured face. Look for the right most feature before the wall goes blank. Start just left and trend up and right through some big moves on the steepest part of the face (crux) to the right most feature. Move up the features with big holds on a steep face (pumpy). Follow the same feature to the top and exit on the big horn jug. Be sure to load up on gear when it presents itself.
Location
On the left side of the Dip Wall, just left of the obvious left facing corner in the center of the featured face. Follow the right side of the feature for most of the climb.
Protection
Single rack of cams, nuts, tri-cams(.25-3 recommended), several shoulder length slings, and a good knowledge of gear. Build a trad belay directly above the climb in good horizontals back a little ways on the ledge. Make a easy 5th class traverse to the anchor on Sam I Am. Have a 12' length of sling in case the Sam I Am anchor needs to be replaced.
Photos
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