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Routes in Gastlosen South Face
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Arête Sud-Ouest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chemin Perdu 5c S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elsa 6c S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hello Marco 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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L'escalier des Aigles 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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La balade du chamois 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Luna Park 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rêve de marmotte 5a S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,053 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Oct 6, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
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Description
A recommended route that takes a mostly mellow path up to one of the taller peaks.
11 pitches, 6a
P1-3 5b, 5a, 5b. Route name marked at base. Possible to link 1-2 together with 60s by a bit of simulclimbing.
P4 6a One airy move up an overhang gives the grade, otherwise just fun climbing.
P5 5c+++ What the wha .? If you love slab climbing, you'll love this pitch. Otherwise bombs away!
P6 5c Shortish nice pitch up to a topout with two anchors; next pitch starts across a gully to the right, so best to just keep going here and belay from the bottom of p7. Note that pitches 7-11 are shared with the adjacent route, Salu Jan. Many guide books consider pitch 6 to be the end of Hallo Marco.
P7-9 More good fun on ridge-textured rock, also another place between p 8-9 where you have to walk over some grass to get to the next belay. Just follow the red arrows (nice touch).
P10 Bit of a kooky pitch, but fun! After going straight up a bit, walk again across some grass and punch through some fun moves on a mini-tower arete to the comfy belay ledge. Or like I did, belay at the base of the mini-tower on one old yellow bolt (plus some gear) to make two short pitches with better communication.
P11 To the top! Enjoy the view.
6 rappels on 60m ropes, again following the red arrows to some dedicated rap stations.
11 pitches, 6a
P1-3 5b, 5a, 5b. Route name marked at base. Possible to link 1-2 together with 60s by a bit of simulclimbing.
P4 6a One airy move up an overhang gives the grade, otherwise just fun climbing.
P5 5c+++ What the wha .? If you love slab climbing, you'll love this pitch. Otherwise bombs away!
P6 5c Shortish nice pitch up to a topout with two anchors; next pitch starts across a gully to the right, so best to just keep going here and belay from the bottom of p7. Note that pitches 7-11 are shared with the adjacent route, Salu Jan. Many guide books consider pitch 6 to be the end of Hallo Marco.
P7-9 More good fun on ridge-textured rock, also another place between p 8-9 where you have to walk over some grass to get to the next belay. Just follow the red arrows (nice touch).
P10 Bit of a kooky pitch, but fun! After going straight up a bit, walk again across some grass and punch through some fun moves on a mini-tower arete to the comfy belay ledge. Or like I did, belay at the base of the mini-tower on one old yellow bolt (plus some gear) to make two short pitches with better communication.
P11 To the top! Enjoy the view.
6 rappels on 60m ropes, again following the red arrows to some dedicated rap stations.
Location
On the Pfadflue section, see Plaisir West or Gastlosen.ch for details. Best parking at Oberi Bire. If walking from Oberi Bire, it is easiest to follow the trails from the parking lot. If you are facing the Gastlosen ridge, Pfadflue is to the right of the Gross Turm (which is the big tower). There is a cross near the top of Pfadflue, which is visible from the path. Stay on the path till you are almost parallel to Pfadflue and then follow the climbers trail up though the scree. The GPS location of the start of Hallo Marco (and Salu Jan, which is adjacent) is 46.577161, 7.275213.
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