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Routes in R) The Cirque
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Access "Fun" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baby Trebuchet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blacklisted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Canadian (variation) aka Mounted Police, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Canadian Route S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Child's Play S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Crouch, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Finders Keepers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freedom Tree S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Graffiti S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hasta La Vista S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hourglass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Live and Let Live S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lord Voldemort S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Mr. McGoo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Norse Code S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Power Lung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Proper Soul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Satanic Traverses S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Skylore Engine S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sloth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Superluminal S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Superstition S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Trebuchet S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Warm-Up, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Where's Bulimia? T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Xanth S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brian McCray (1996) |
| Page Views: | 2,226 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Oct 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
There are more great 5.12s at the Cirque than you may initially realize. The quality of this route will likely surprise you. It doesn't have the best stone that the cirque has to offer, but the movement makes up for the slightly inferior stone.
Begin by negotiating an easy lie back section up a big flake. The major difficulties are encountered starting at the third bolt. Get ready for back to back dynamic moves. The second jump move to an ergonomic hand sized pocket is the highlight of the route. After sticking the pocket carefully traverse left (and slightly downward) on small edges. A juggy side pull romp takes you to the last bolt where you must decide which sequence to use to get to the anchor. Don't worry, the top is easier than it appears no matter which way you go.
Begin by negotiating an easy lie back section up a big flake. The major difficulties are encountered starting at the third bolt. Get ready for back to back dynamic moves. The second jump move to an ergonomic hand sized pocket is the highlight of the route. After sticking the pocket carefully traverse left (and slightly downward) on small edges. A juggy side pull romp takes you to the last bolt where you must decide which sequence to use to get to the anchor. Don't worry, the top is easier than it appears no matter which way you go.
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