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Routes in West Face
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Cucamonga Honey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Double Stuff T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Head Rush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Left Water Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Lunar Leap T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rawl Drive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Water Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Truckin' Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Werner's Wiggle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Werner Braun (Aug '69) |
| Page Views: | 2,976 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Sep 28, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Unlike the Left Water Crack, Werner's Wiggle doesn't actually require any wiggling. Just pure slab climbing up the narrow groove to the right of the Water Cracks and Head Rush.
Rope up at an indistinct point on the slab below and start climbing up 4th class towards the left side of a flake. Plug some gear in the flake (.75" cams or med nuts) and the climb up to a bolted anchor on a ledge.
A series of "steps" in the groove lead up to the first bolt. At this point, leave the polished groove in favor of better friction out on the face to the right. Then join the groove again at the second bolt and follow it past a 3rd bolt to the top.
From the top of the second pitch it is just barely possible to rap the route with one 70m rope. Using a 70 I was also able to lead this in one pitch.
Rope up at an indistinct point on the slab below and start climbing up 4th class towards the left side of a flake. Plug some gear in the flake (.75" cams or med nuts) and the climb up to a bolted anchor on a ledge.
A series of "steps" in the groove lead up to the first bolt. At this point, leave the polished groove in favor of better friction out on the face to the right. Then join the groove again at the second bolt and follow it past a 3rd bolt to the top.
From the top of the second pitch it is just barely possible to rap the route with one 70m rope. Using a 70 I was also able to lead this in one pitch.
Photos
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