Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.4 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 1220 ft (370 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,124 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Sep 15, 2011 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
This route up Mt. Olympus provides a more interesting alternative to the standard hiking trail. You start on the trail, hike up for a while, climb one 450' rock rib (Blister Hill Bypass), hike on the trail some more, climb a 770' rib (Forgotten Arete), then finish hiking on the trail to the true summit of Mt. Olympus. It is kind of weird and contrived, but the actual climbing is surprisingly good.
Approach
Park at the standard Mt. Olympus trailhead that is on Wasatch Blvd, just north of the the intersection of Wasatch Blvd. and Tolcate Hills Drive. Hike up the trail for 45 minutes or an hour until you're at the base of Blister Hill, the section of the trail that has lots of forested switchbacks. The Blister Hill Bypass ridge climbs the obvious rocky rib to the right of the Blister Hill switchbacks. The trail comes within 50 feet of the base of the rib. The base of the rib is at 6280'.
Blister Hill Bypass
Climb up the rib, staying right on its edge for the most part. It is mostly 4th class, but there are three 5th class sections. The first is a steep step with good holds. The second is a lower angled but relatively smooth and rounded part of the ridge. The third is a mantle using a hand crack. 450' (vertical gain; actual climbing length is more), 5.5. You might be able to bypass the crux sections by going to either side.
Once the ridge ends, walk left for a few minutes until you're back on the trail. Continue hiking up the trail for another 15 or 20 minutes. When you get to a clearing and can get good look at Geurt's Ridge (before you head into the trees), look at the ridge to its right on the other side of the canyon (see beta pic). That ridge is Forgotten Arete.
Keep hiking on the trail as it goes through the trees. Forgotten Arete is right above the trail to the right (south). It doesn't look like much when you're on the trail. If you're wondering, Uh, Is that jagged thing the ridge? you're probably spot on. The start of the ridge is at 7630' and is 20 or 30 feet from the trail.
Forgotten Arete
This ridge kind of parallels Geurt's Ridge (which is to the north or climber's left), though it is not nearly as long.
This ridge isn't quite as sustained as the Blister Hill Bypass, but it is longer. It is also a bit more complex, requiring some down-scrambling and skirting around gendarmes. There are one or two 5th class sections. 770' (vertical gain; actual climbing length is more), 5.5.
Follow the ridge until it ends (at about 8400 feet), then head left for 10 minutes through light brush and over rocky terrain until you run into the trail again. Either head up to the mountain's summit or head down the trail.
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