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Wild Country
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 35
votes
Routes in Multipitch routes
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Wild Country S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eterna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wings for Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rita Telendos S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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De Charybde En Cila S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prometheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 870 ft (264 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Peter Keller, Urs Odermatt 5-10 |
| Page Views: | 4,944 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Ken H on Aug 28, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Charles Yang, Loren P |
Description
Pitch 1 30 m 5a Easy slab (skip bolts to link) Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 30 m 5a Easy slab to nice belay ledge Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 30 m 6a Move up and right on some balancy moves on a little bit of sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 30 m 5c Move up and left on easy slab. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 5 30 m 5c Varied climbing up to a double bolt anchor.
Pitch 6 30 m 6a+ Move right from the anchor to some reach moves to the right and a few tough pulls on thin sharp rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 7 30 m 6a Head up on more grey rock. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 8 30 m 5b Easy climbing leads to the base of a sort of dihedral formation. Double bolt anchor.
Pitch 9 30 m 5c Climb the awesome slightly overhung rock with amazing exposure on big holds to the top. Double bolt anchor.
Location
BOAT: Most climbers seem to pay for the direct boat for 10 euros/person, which drops you off close below the cliff. You still have to do the same elevation gain of 450 ft, but only in 0.4 miles rather than 1.5 miles. You can also pay for the 3 euro/person boat and then walk the 1.5 miles. The first boat ride was at 7:00 AM as of Oct 13 and runs supposedly till midnight.
Located between Crystal Cave and Crescendo sectors. At about 30 minutes from the goat gate locate Crescendo and hike up to the base of the buttress coming down its left side. Hike up next to the buttress until you locate the route.
Don't forget a photo as a lot of the coast looks similar.
To descend walk off down the North side. From the top of the route walk North to a saddle above the cliff band forming the North Face. From here hike right (East) above the cliff until you locate a carined trail leading down a vegetated slope. As you descend watch for a small white church on the ridge line as you will need to follow the trail to this church. From the church a nice trail leads to the shoreline and then head right down the shoreline back to the town of Telendos.
Protection
Well protected with bolts with bolted belays
With a 70: I recommend you take a few extendable draws and skip some bolts to link pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 8&9
With a 60m, you can link…
- P1-2, super easy, decent amount of rope left, easy comms
- P3-4, beware of rope drag, skip the final ~3 bolts of P3 and the first ~3 bolts of P4 and that’ll prevent your rope from cutting right and then left (those bolts are all on super easy terrain). Tougher to communicate.
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