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Orange Express

5.10b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 125 votes
FA: Rudaw Janowic 2010
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville La… > Orange Oswald Wall

Description

Climb the short left facing corner through a few tricky opening moves to better holds above and then carefully climb to the high first bolt. Proceed through the next few bolts on good holds between long stretches. The grade drops at the top as you move up through large chicken heads to the anchors.

Location

Start ten feet right of Orange Oswald at a steep left facing ramp. As of Aug-2011 the start was marked with the chalk letters PDS which I assume at the equipperÂ’s initials.

Protection

It takes one piece of gear at the bottom then 7 bolts to the anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt J Miller
 
[Hide Comment] This is listed as a 5.10c in the new guidebook. The first clip is high on a ledge, but the climbing to that point isn't hard compared to the rest of the climb if you don't have any pro. I really enjoyed this climb, I thought it was a lot more interesting than Orange Oswald. May 5, 2015
Greg Flury
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I agree with Matt J Miller: This route is MUCH better than Orange Oswald. And it felt like 10c, as stated in the latest guide. Aug 25, 2018
Kristi Cookie
Charlotte
 
[Hide Comment] I also agree with both Matt and Greg. MUCH MUCH Better than Orange Oswald. And is probably the best line at OO. Make sure to grab a pitch before it becomes a grease bucket like the rest of the wall. Also, probably 10-. Mar 7, 2021