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Swillbillies

5.7, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 51 votes
FA: Old School
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone

Description

This is route #12 in Sven's Book. The route starts behind an oak tree to the right of Freaky Face. Move up the corner and crack onto a decent rest ledge. From there place good gear and then get into the crack to your left using good sidepulls and finger locks. A few tricky balancy moves up the crack lead to a good finger lock and mantle move onto a sloping ledge. Scramble to the top and shake yr ass like a drunken swillbilly.

Location

10 feet to the right of Freaky Face

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another shot of Doug H. leading Swillbillies OldSS DL.
[Hide Photo] Another shot of Doug H. leading Swillbillies OldSS DL.
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
[Hide Photo] Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Several ways to start or climb Freaky Face. The start shown here is per Knower's book, but starting farther right for the 5.10d makes sense, too. Above the horizontal crack, you have to stay pretty far right to get the 5.10d grade.
[Hide Photo] Several ways to start or climb Freaky Face. The start shown here is per Knower's book, but starting farther right for the 5.10d makes sense, too. Above the horizontal crack, you have to stay pretty…
Swillbillies to Gargantua. Routes to right of Freaky Face as you round the corner toward Pacific Ocean Wall to the east. <br> <br> Uberschmitt can share the start with Sepsen Wall (per Knower) or Tarantula (per S/M). Looks like you could start between them, too.
[Hide Photo] Swillbillies to Gargantua. Routes to right of Freaky Face as you round the corner toward Pacific Ocean Wall to the east. Uberschmitt can share the start with Sepsen Wall (per Knower) or Tarantul…
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1. Great warm up for the start of the day's agenda.
[Hide Photo] Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1. Great warm up for the start of the day's agenda.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tradiban
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Very protectable and fun. A excellent first lead at The Lake. More like 5.6. Oct 9, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. Love the topout moves, definitely a great lead. May 29, 2012
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome lead. Its super fun pulling into the crack and cool moves to the top. Oct 14, 2013