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No Country For Old Men
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Routes in Tradistan Tower
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Thundercats are Go! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 |
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No Country For Old Men T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Da Cherry on Top! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pine Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nuggernaut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Cherry For Old Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | JM/CP |
| Page Views: | 2,442 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jaaron Mankins on Aug 21, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route features some of the best crack climbing on the tower and was the first route on the tower climbed. The crux comes on the overhanging handcrack on pitch 3. The first three pitches are awesome, and then the angle eases and the climbing is quite easy to the top. Would like to get some anchors on this one soon. The line is not really obvious, and numerous lines can be climbed off of each ledge system.
P1: start up wide, wet crack and go straight up or left, then up handcrack next to a small cave to large ledge and belay. 5.9, 180'.
P2: this pitch is killer. Climb straight up stembox that looks much harder than it is and exit at top right of stembox on giant jugs and great gear. Follow smaller dihedrals and overlaps up to ledge and belay. 5.9, 200'.
P3: this is the sweet, overhanging handcrack that one can see from below on the approach. It starts out 0.75 and goes up to a #3 Camalot at the top-slightly overhanging and strenuous. Belay??? with not much for an anchor. 5.10+, ?'.
P4-6: climb up to the top of the tower after the crux pitch. 5.4-5.7, 400'.
P1: start up wide, wet crack and go straight up or left, then up handcrack next to a small cave to large ledge and belay. 5.9, 180'.
P2: this pitch is killer. Climb straight up stembox that looks much harder than it is and exit at top right of stembox on giant jugs and great gear. Follow smaller dihedrals and overlaps up to ledge and belay. 5.9, 200'.
P3: this is the sweet, overhanging handcrack that one can see from below on the approach. It starts out 0.75 and goes up to a #3 Camalot at the top-slightly overhanging and strenuous. Belay??? with not much for an anchor. 5.10+, ?'.
P4-6: climb up to the top of the tower after the crux pitch. 5.4-5.7, 400'.
Location
Follow trail as for the Nuggernaut. Go past the 'naut and follow the cliff down and to the south. Keep walking until you come to a nice amphitheater with a few climbable lines. There are numerous ways to start the first pitch, and there are many caves in this area. The first ascent followed the slightly wet crack up and around to the left.
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