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> Mother's Buttress
> Cave Buttress
The Pleasure Pillar
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 12
votes
Routes in Cave Buttress
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Cro-Magnons From Space T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA Facial Pleasure) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasure Pillar, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rowan's Arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unaweeper, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 2 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Weeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem, Dave Foley |
| Page Views: | 1,701 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Aug 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This was a good find while out for a day of cragging. The cracks are straight in and not of the typical flared variety commonly found in Unaweep.
Start in the deep gully and get high enough to hand traverse left, on good feet and holds, to gain a ledge where you will get your first protection. From here, make a semi-awkward move that gains a hand crack over a slight roof. Once you pull the roof, continue to a ledge near some blocks. Follow the splitter finger crack that begins in a slight overhang, and plug and chuck for 20 feet to another ledge. From here, do a few face moves to reach the anchor.
Start in the deep gully and get high enough to hand traverse left, on good feet and holds, to gain a ledge where you will get your first protection. From here, make a semi-awkward move that gains a hand crack over a slight roof. Once you pull the roof, continue to a ledge near some blocks. Follow the splitter finger crack that begins in a slight overhang, and plug and chuck for 20 feet to another ledge. From here, do a few face moves to reach the anchor.
Location
This route is one of the first ones you come upon when heading to cave buttress. It is on the left handside of a large gully. It climbs the prominent prow that is approximately 100 to the left and down hill from Cro-Magnons From Space.
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