The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The
District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A
bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have
some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow
Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any
current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the
District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief:
Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north:
Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north:
Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Avg: 3.7 from 313
votes
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
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North Vancouver
I had doubles of everything up to #2 C4 one #3 and a selection of finger sized gear, it was more than enough, only the first 5.9 pitch has bad rope drag potential if you don't use some long slings.
If you don't want to rap the route, the walk off is not so bad. There is a fixed line in the wet corner, you could set up a rap off of trees if you don't like the look of it. After that it's a pretty straight forward scramble through the manana and slot machine areas. Aug 7, 2011
Chilliwack, BC
Worth noting too that this ends up on the ledge right below the Corazon Face so you have the choice to add on one of 3 10d bolted face climbs or a 10a dike traverse for a 5th pitch. Aug 10, 2011
Bend, OR
I was pleased to have some extra #0.5 camalot/red alien sizes. On the P2 10c.. after pulling the roof the gear is sparse for a few moves, but I was then able to get a solid red alien at the base of the upper finger crack. Aug 10, 2012
Seattle, WA
Pitch 2-4) FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1966. 10c A1,
they described the 2nd pitch as the central crack with the little roof.
the 3rd pitch was originally the stem box.
4th pitch was the chimney on the left.
I climbed this in 2012 with the middle finger crack on pitch 3, and the right crack on the 4th pitch ( which is part of Rainy Day Woman), The original BE finish is the chimney, but the right side crack is great.
Returned early this June and did the Pitch 3 stem box variation which is awesome!!!!!!!!!!
Another variation is the far left side for pitch 2. Sling a root and make airy traverse on dyke to finger crack, the intimidating roof above is easy and fun, trend right to pine tree, finish on 10a finger crack- leads to tree at base of Stem box pitch. Jun 24, 2014
Hailey, ID
Vancouver, BC
I always find the 5.9 pitch quite tricky, especially managing rope drag. I've climbed it three times and can't seem to work out where the gear should go to avoid it. Bring lots of slings.
The roof on p2 and the sparse section that follows provides the mental crux for me, but the thin and non-locking fingers above are probably the actual crux. 5.10.
Highlight of the route was the p3 fingers pitch, but I keep hearing the stem-box is amazing so I'll have to return. Short crux, bomber gear 5.10-.
We did the fingers & hands crack for p4, great pitch but I've found seeps a bit. Once it was too wet for me to climb (got about 1/3 of the way up but was just getting soaked), today it was dry at the bottom but still quite greasy near the crux. As AJV says, it is secure climbing though, I found I could just grunt my way through the moisture. If I climb it in the spring again I'll probably haul up a couple of 4s as well so I can try the flare/chimney if this one is wet again. 5.10. May 9, 2015
P1: (5.9+) Moderate crack climbing leads to a traverse under a roof made easier by stepping on an old stump. Still, a challenging pitch and really no easier than the rest of the route. Bolt anchor on top of Bullethead Ledge.
P2: (5.10) Move right from the belay anchors along the ledge and head up the thin crack. a tricky roof encounter leads to an easier but technical finger crack. Once at the top of the crack, down climb a few feet to the left and belay off of a tree below the obvious "Stem Box" pitch.
P3: (5.10) Stem and jam up the "Stem Box" until it's possible to exit onto the right crack. Top out onto another forested ledge and build a gear belay.
P4 (5.10) Climb the finger/thin hands crack directly above and finish on the route's rap rings.
It would be very easy to rap from the top and climb the alternate 4th pitch before descending to the ground.
From Bullethead Ledge, a 70m rope will get you into the gully with 10-15 of easy down climbing back to your packs allowing you to skip the 8m rap station near the bottom. Tie knots in your rope ends!
Gear to 4" with a few doubles in the finger sizes. Jul 1, 2015
Bend, OR
On P2, I was pleased to discover a 0.75 X4 camalot went in beautifully right after pull the crux. YMMV. Aug 7, 2016
Squamish, BC
"Marooned" 5.11b
You start at the same belay as the 5.9 but you go up the the face past a bolt and then make some route out moves towards the crack. Climb the razor thin seam up the slabby face. Pull over the overlap past another bolt and a bit more runout until you reach the final inside corner.
60m rope will work great.
2 bolts, SR to .5' (rps protect the crux well).
Double .5' is also nice to have.
Enjoy! Apr 25, 2018
Vancouver, BC
Burlington, ON
San Francisco, CA
San Diego, CA
Squamish, B.C.
- First pitch is 5.10a, not 5.9, if you finish using the short angled handcrack into the short finger crack finish. Also, this is an airy pitch... the most fall consequence on the entire 4 pitch route if you blow it in some places. Has an alpine trad route rambly feel. I like it, but not to be underestimated.
- 2nd pitch is the crux pitch of the route. Very fun. Safely protected. 10b/c
- 3rd pitch. 100% do the stembox out left, belaying from the tree. Type 1 fun the whole way. Totally not 10c. 3 parties today (myself included) called it 10a compared to the rest of the route
- 4th pitch. Finger crack on right legit 10b, sustained, second-best pitch on the route after the stem box. The chimney on the left (not on the right as described above in the main topo) is legit 10b, too. Thrutchy good fun. Jul 30, 2022
Squamish, BC