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New Moon

5.10d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 57 votes
FA: John Hoffman and Max Jones, 1976
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
Warning Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you traverse left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.

New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking the crux, however.

Location

Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.

Protection

Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

New Moon - thin is in!
[Hide Photo] New Moon - thin is in!
A great (better) approach to the Firecracker roof.
[Hide Photo] A great (better) approach to the Firecracker roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] I figured I would get on this as a way to avoid the wide crack on Firecracker (didn't have anything larger than a #2 camalot) and got the send. It not a gimme but I found it more technical than powerful. Apr 22, 2013
Khick
Reno
 
[Hide Comment] Thought the roof was still harder than the widening jams. Really fun though! Oct 15, 2014
Tahoe Matt
Truckee
[Hide Comment] The .5 fingers is the real crux. No gear above a #2 is needed for the linkup. Try not to reach out left to keep it legit. Sep 3, 2015
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, the preferable start to the Firecracker roof if you ask me. There is an easy section after the New Moon crux so it's easy to de-pump and get some juice back before tackling the roof.

I still thought the roof was the crux. Jun 7, 2018