To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
New Moon
5.10d,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 57
votes
FA: John Hoffman and Max Jones, 1976
California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you traverse left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.
New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking the crux, however.
Location
Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.
Protection
Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.
Reno, NV
Reno
Truckee
South Lake Tahoe
I still thought the roof was the crux. Jun 7, 2018