Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | James Litz |
Page Views: | 3,058 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | stefan96 on Jul 28, 2011 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
The magnificant orange streak to the right of the Great White Behemoth A.K.A He Biggum A.K.A The Great Pile of Pumkin Puke. Man, this climb has some history. Bolted>stripped>re-bolted>sent. Amazing powerfull long pulls between pockets. Continuously hard from the ground to the 7th clip, with a hard crux of the ground, a dyno after that then a red point crux before the easy slab up top. Stick clip the first bolt out right. You can clip the bolt right above the first seam off the ground for a directional, but its not necessary. This climb is stripped of its five stars because there are two drilled pockets on this climb. But in my opinion, that should not stop you from getting on this climb because it is one of the most fun climbs I have gotten on in Ten Sleep.
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