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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> E Gate Buttress
Stradler
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B-Positive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Beer Drinkers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blooddrive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Camino Torcido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graying at the Routes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oye Cómo Va T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ripping Wall, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route Left of Snowflakes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Skilled Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speed Of Life T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Ramp, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang June 3, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,456 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on Jul 27, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Probably wont be high on anyones tick list, but we were there, and it looked fun. Stradler climbs the off-fist to groping-chimney yawn left of Keelhaul directly behind an old pine that is occasionally used to rap the fourth class terrain into the East Gate Gully (see photo here: mountainproject.com/v/10722… ). Luckily the outer lip of the crack is positive and steep enough to avoid full body penetration into the granite grinder. Liebacks and saddling are the play with a certain level of grit-groveling is to be expected. Numbers 4, 5, and 6 C2s were all handy. Belay from blocks on a ledge. Rap from these same blocks with a chunk of webbing.
Location
Climb to the top of Tingey's Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right.
If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs. (This is the fastest way if you only have time to do these climbs.) Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west.
The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.
If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs. (This is the fastest way if you only have time to do these climbs.) Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west.
The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.
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