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Routes in February Buttress
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Ain't Misbehavin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ground Hog Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Aquarius T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 10,750 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Jul 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Start with slabs and cracks to the right and uphill from the toe of the buttress. There is a very good 5.7 variation (Ain't Misbehavin') start to this climb which follows the blunt arete from the toe of the buttress.
Pitch 1: Aim for the large pine tree down and to the right of the big roofs (these roofs sit above the gully on the left side of the buttress). There is a 2-bolt anchor here. (5.6, 90')
Pitch 2: Head up and to the right of the steep difficulties, then back left above them. Continue up the blunt ridge to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. (5.5, 95')
Pitch 3: Easy cracks and slabs lead to a short section of steeper cracks and pockets. These end at a nice ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. (5.6, 110')
Pitch 4 (Not Recommended): There is another pitch above you if you want it. Head up the obvious lines to the top. The rock deteriorates (crumbly, mossy) quickly, but stays at the grade. Beware that there are no more bolted anchors above. (When I did it, we rapped off of a sling around a scary tottering choss pile.) I don't know for sure, but it looks likely that you can top out and walk off to the right. If you head up there, a bolt kit might be handy if you plan to rappel.
Pitch 1: Aim for the large pine tree down and to the right of the big roofs (these roofs sit above the gully on the left side of the buttress). There is a 2-bolt anchor here. (5.6, 90')
Pitch 2: Head up and to the right of the steep difficulties, then back left above them. Continue up the blunt ridge to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. (5.5, 95')
Pitch 3: Easy cracks and slabs lead to a short section of steeper cracks and pockets. These end at a nice ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. (5.6, 110')
Pitch 4 (Not Recommended): There is another pitch above you if you want it. Head up the obvious lines to the top. The rock deteriorates (crumbly, mossy) quickly, but stays at the grade. Beware that there are no more bolted anchors above. (When I did it, we rapped off of a sling around a scary tottering choss pile.) I don't know for sure, but it looks likely that you can top out and walk off to the right. If you head up there, a bolt kit might be handy if you plan to rappel.
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