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Veterans With Vertigo
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 10
votes
Routes in SOB Gully (skier's left side)
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A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Casual Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casually Off-Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloak & Dagger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cloaked Interpretation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comic 2.0 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Comic Relief T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Debutante's Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escape Artist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escape, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Perfect Art T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Power Lounger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Stand Up Comic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X |
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Veterans With Vertigo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Woke Up Punk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Woke Up Trump T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Topher and Patience Donahue and Steve Monks, 5/2001 |
| Page Views: | 4,067 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Brown on Jul 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The crux is on the 6th pitch and is one of the best face pitches I've done down there! I don't know why there isn't more spray about this route.
P1. Climb thin .9+ on face/corner at left or scramble higher up right and climb a 5.8 corner to same belay, 100'.
P2. Climb straight up 100' of .10+ "reachy" fingers and hands to left traverse at grassy ledges to wide laybacks to belay. It is almost a full 70m!
P3. Stay left up the corner system past "techy stem corner (harder version of the "red dihedral" pitch on "No Country For Old Men", stay left over short corner roof with fingers to stance at huge flake, "The Crapper Belay", 180'.
P4. Go up short, .10, facey climbing to huge "walk-off" ledge, 100'.
P5. Head up right towards an acute, 12" deep, hands corner that is about 30' long to some easy varied climbing to a bolt/1 piece belay below the obviously good, pewter colored headwall, 180'.
P6. "The Money Pitch"! Crank through the bolts and pins and a couple tiny placements for about 70-80' on perfect, crimpy, face climbing, 80'.
P7. Clip a bolt and a wire then continue up and left through some .11a R moves to blocky rock just next to and right of huge peg band till you see a bolt in the peg, go left across .10 move and up to ledge on left, 150'.
P8. Climb crappier rock straight up a left-facing corner for 35', then wander up right 30’ on huge ledge. Then go up 5th Class to top out, 200’ or so.
P1. Climb thin .9+ on face/corner at left or scramble higher up right and climb a 5.8 corner to same belay, 100'.
P2. Climb straight up 100' of .10+ "reachy" fingers and hands to left traverse at grassy ledges to wide laybacks to belay. It is almost a full 70m!
P3. Stay left up the corner system past "techy stem corner (harder version of the "red dihedral" pitch on "No Country For Old Men", stay left over short corner roof with fingers to stance at huge flake, "The Crapper Belay", 180'.
P4. Go up short, .10, facey climbing to huge "walk-off" ledge, 100'.
P5. Head up right towards an acute, 12" deep, hands corner that is about 30' long to some easy varied climbing to a bolt/1 piece belay below the obviously good, pewter colored headwall, 180'.
P6. "The Money Pitch"! Crank through the bolts and pins and a couple tiny placements for about 70-80' on perfect, crimpy, face climbing, 80'.
P7. Clip a bolt and a wire then continue up and left through some .11a R moves to blocky rock just next to and right of huge peg band till you see a bolt in the peg, go left across .10 move and up to ledge on left, 150'.
P8. Climb crappier rock straight up a left-facing corner for 35', then wander up right 30’ on huge ledge. Then go up 5th Class to top out, 200’ or so.
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