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Finger Lickin' Good

5.10d, Sport, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 41 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Chicken Head Ranch
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Description

This is the farthest right bolt line on the NW face.

1st pitch: (5.9) Follow grooves and big holds past 7 bolts to an anchor behind/right of the detached pillar (or you could just do the 2nd pitch from the same approach ledge as the other routes).

2nd pitch: (5.11a) Ascend awesome, thin face climbing past 9 bolts. This pitch is really fun and pretty sustained. It has steep slab climbing through a couple of bulges on pretty small but sharp crystals. There is a crux bulge between 4th and 5th bolts. The holds get bigger after this, but there are still interesting and entertaining moves all the way to the anchor. This was my favorite route on this wall.

Location

The start is downhill from the other routes on this wall. Locate the bolt line on the pillar....

Protection

Bolts and bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kristin Knudson on Finger Lickin' Good. Ironically, this route removed her finger tips. Watch for sharp crystals.
[Hide Photo] Kristin Knudson on Finger Lickin' Good. Ironically, this route removed her finger tips. Watch for sharp crystals.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Although tricky, this felt easier than Topographical Oceans. Jul 21, 2011
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is much higher quality than the first, and accessible via a short scramble. Aug 10, 2012
Ben Burnett
NM
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Nowhere near 5.11, the crux might be on the "5.9" 1st pitch. Aug 25, 2012
Phil Eastburn
 
[Hide Comment] It felt like the crux was pretty low on pitch 2, the 2nd bolt or so. Otherwise, it is pretty cruiser 10b'ish for the 2nd pitch. Jun 16, 2018
RuudVN
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I thought the second pitch was easier and more straightforward than Extra Crispy, 5.10b. It may be height-dependent - I am taller. Fun route. A 70 m will get you all the way down to the ground at the start of Funky Chicken. Sep 3, 2019
Brandon Wampler
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I thought this was significantly more tricky than the 5.10 pitches around. I could see an argument for 10+, but the crux moves were thoughtprovoking. Sep 2, 2024