The Fold

We tried the route description for "The Fold" on Mountain Project but only found parts of it to be helpful. The suggested changes from Paul Stoliker in the comments were generally more helpful. Having climbed it several times and combining this experience with other friends/guides descriptions and the info from Mountain Project, we created the following description which we have found to be more useful. Not sure if you would want to substitute it or not. Let me know if you have questions. Conrad Janzen

The Fold, Mt Kidd 5.8, 10 pitches

Gear: Double rack from BD #0-#3, a single set of nuts, 10 alpine draws/slings, no pins needed, single 70 m rope or double 60 m ropes.

Approach: (1-1.5 hrs) Park at the Galatea Trail parking lot off Highway 40 in Kananaskis. This is a well-marked parking lot with outhouses and trash bins. Follow the trail downhill and across the suspension bridge. Continue across a smaller bridge to reach a “T Junction”. Head right along the Terrace Trail for a few hundred meters to the first obvious dry creek bed. Hike up the dry creek bed for a couple hundred meters and you'll find a well-beaten trail on climber's right that leads up to Kidd Falls and the Fold. Follow the trail up to below the base of Kidd Falls. Fill your water bottles and traverse left on easy ledges into a pocket of trees on the climber’s right side of the ridge that forms “The Fold”. Walk across and down to the left side of the tree pocket, then climb a short slab (4th /easy 5th) up and left to gain the ridge proper. Belay at a large tree at the base of the ridge.

The Fold (Pitch lengths are approximate, and pitches can be broken up differently)

P1 – 5.5, 35 m - Climb up the ridge and belay off a block/tower and cams on the ridge. Alternatively, continue up and right a few meters to a hidden two-pin belay on the face below the obvious crack.

P2 – 5.8, 50 m – Move up and right then climb face holds to a hidden pin and up into a nice steep crack in the middle of the ridge. Climb the crack (5.8 crux to start) to its top, then move left to a wide crack/chimney and climb this to the top. Belay just below the ridge crest in good cracks. 

Alternatively, stop and belay after the steep crack at the base of the wide crack/chimney. 

P3 – 5th class, 30-35 m – Move out right and up to the ridge crest. Follow the easy ridge up and belay in cracks just before the base of the next steep wall, or continue up a few m’s to the base of the steep wall and belay off a small nut and slung hole.

P4 – 5.7, 50 m – Move up and over to the right side of loose looking pillar. At the top of the pilar move back left onto a nice steep face with a crack and good protection. Climb the face/crack to the ridge crest and walk back to belay in cracks at a nice grassy ledge. 

P5 – 5.6, 50 m - Climb along the ridge on great water-worn rock with good protection to the base of a steeper wall. Pass this on the left side, then move back right through a weakness onto the ridge. Belay on the ridge above in cracks, or in a cool hole/pod that can be slung for the belay.

P6 – 5.6, 50 m – Climb up along the ridge on good rock to a small dirt ledge with pins/cracks below a steep wall. Either belay here or step up another few meters to a good medium-sized crack and belay.

P7 – 5.7, 25 m – Move out right over the chasm following grey rock to the bottom of a chimney. Climb up and left past a hidden crack, then up steep rock on good holds to a ledge and a two-bolt belay.

P8 –5.7/8 or 5.6 - Climb a “sweet looking groove” above the belay on good rock. Above there are two possible lines. Move left to the base of the left gully and climb the gully to the top passing a couple of pins along the way (5.7/8). Belay on a ledge with pins and a 0.75 cam beside two chopped bolt studs hammered into the rock. 

Alternatively, climb the “sweet looking groove” and move right to the bottom of the right gully (piton), climb up good rock on the right side of the gully (5.6) and step back left to reach the belay ledge.

P9 – 50 m, 5.7 - Not an obvious line and both options are a bit run out in places. Watch for loose rock. Climb up and slightly left for about 15 m on good rock with reasonable protection, then trend back right to a crack on the left side of a small broken pillar. Climb carefully to the top of the pillar, then move right onto easier ground. Stay left of a small scoop/roof (hidden pin?) to reach the scree ledge above. Belay off pitons on the left, or continue up easier loose terrain on the right to the next scree ledge. Belay off pitons on the left at the base of a short steep yellow wall. 

Alternatively, head out right from the belay to a corner with pins, then trend up and left to reach the same small scoop/roof leading to the first scree ledge.  

P10 – 10 m or 30 m, 5.7 - From the piton belay at the higher of the two scree ledges, climb the steep yellow wall up and right on good jugs with no protection to the ledge above. Either belay here on pins and small cams, or walk up and across the scree ledge to reach the bolted belay/rap station on the wall behind. High-five your second when they arrive and prep for the epic rap.

Descent – (1.5-2 hrs) From the two-bolt rap anchor at the top of the route, descend about 28-30 m down and climber’s left to a small ledge with a two-bolt rap station. From here it's an epic 45-50 m free hanging rap off the climber's left side of the ledge. Note that despite looking like you are rapping into the void, you can look over the edge on the left to see your ropes touch the ground on the wide scree ledge below. 

Alternatively, the free hanging 50 m rappel can be broken into two shorter rappels with a single 70 m rope using a hidden intermediate station about 12-15 m below the small ledge. Rap off the climber's left side of the small ledge and swing in to clip the hidden hanging station on the right. Small face holds may help. Finish with a free hanging 33 m rappel to reach the wide scree ledge.

From the scree ledge, follow a well-travelled trail down to a large cairn on the skier's right. Continue to traverse right on a good trail to circumvent a cliff band, then head back far skier’s left to regain the main ridge. Follow the ridgeline down, trending left whenever possible. The trail will traverse into the trees (cairn) and bring you to a 20 m rappel off a tree in the main forest. Bring extra tat to leave here if needed. Follow the trail skier’s left and down a steep gully, then traverse left across the meadows to rejoin the approach trail.

Approach: Same as for the Kidd Falls ice climb. Park at the Galeta Trail parking lot off the Kananaskis Highway 40. This is a well marked trailhead parking lot with outhouses and trash. Follow the trail downhill and across the suspension bridge. Cross one more smaller bridge and there is a trail map sign at a "T" junction. Head RIGHT for a few hundred meters to the first obvious dry creekbed. Follow this up for a few hundred meters and you'll find a well beaten trail that leads all the way up to Kidd Falls and the Fold. Head up the hillside left of the Fold gully and traverse across the gully at an easy section start the climb just uphill from a big tree growing on the Fold Rib.

Descent: From the two bolt anchor at the top of the route: rap 30 meters to a hidden 2 ring rap station on climbers left (see topo). From here it's a epic 50m double rope rap that is almost completely fee hanging.  Note that despite looking like your rapping into the void, you can look over the edge to the left to can see your ropes touch the ground on the wide scree ledge below. The rappel can also be done with two single rope raps using a completely free hanging and hidden intermediate station about 10-15m farther down(beats me how they got those bolts placed). Rap down into the void (knots in your rope wouldn't be a bad idea) and touchdown on a huge scree slope. From here follow a clear trail to a large cairn on descenders right.  Continue to traverse right on a good trail to circumvent a cliff band, then head back really far left to regain the main ridge. Follow the ridgeline down, trending left whenever possible. The well-worn trail will traverse into the trees (cairn) and bring you to a short (20m) tree rappel main forest.  It may be possible (as per the original poster) to traverse lower down before entering the trees to avoid the short rappel. The grassy knoll will lead down and back to the valley below the Fold allowing you to rejoing the Fold / Kidd Falls approach trail.

Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional). Highly recommend dual 60m ropes to enjoy the wicked 40-50m free hanging rappel!