PRINT: Rock Climb Edge of Space, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

Edge of Space

5.11, Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 3.8 from 33 votes
FA: Pat McNerthney, David Rubine 1985
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

Edge of Space is a brilliant 2-pitch finish to Iconoclast and a sporty alternative to Hyperspace.

P1-5 Follow Iconoclast to Library ledge. (We made it 5 pitches)

P6 -5.10d - 15m - From Library Ledge, look out left for a bolt (If you don't feel good about making it to that first bolt, this route may not be for you;) you can bail onto Outer Space). Make a wild, committing deadpoint/jump off the ledge to a decent hold, and pass three bolts trending left to a semi-hanging belay.

P7 - 5.11b- 55m- The Business. Enjoy jaw-dropping exposure as you desperately slap up the arete. The climbing is incredibly sustained at the 10+/11- level for 50 or 60 ft. Bring some decent edging shoes and WAIT FOR SHADE on this pitch. 9 Bolts and then run it out to the summit!

Iconoclast/Psychopath/Edge of Space is one of the best multipitch routes I've ever done.

Location

The stunning arete feature that this route follows os visible from the trail, in-between Hyperspace and Outerspace.

Protection

Bolts. Gear could be placed on the last pitch after the bolts end, but most climbers capable of leading this crux will find the remainder of the pitch casual.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes on Snow Creek Wall

Looking for the nonexistent holds, photo credit- Scott Waeschle

Chris Borg following the Edge of Space - June 2023

Edge of Space 2nd to last pitch going into the tricky traverse sequence

View from Library Ledge belay to your first bolt. If you see weather coming in and get cold feet you can finish on Outer Space...

Jake Leonard launching out on the first pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MorganH

Super fun climbing. I actually thought the "10d" pitch off of library ledge was more challenging than the arrette pitch. It was a great way to finish off Iconoclast. The Psychopath pitch was also fun, although a tricky crux. Jun 3, 2012

hkennedy

The Edge of Space is unreal, the name says it all. If you live in the area or are passing through this thing is fully worth it!! Mega 5.11 climbing climbing with some big exposer. Jul 5, 2014

J Roatch
Leavenworth, WA

Here's a sick picture of Sol Wertkin on this climb

instagram.com/p/372R-MSTO-/ Jun 16, 2015

Eric Stern
Seattle

The climbing to the first bolt is about 10a slab. Also the runout on the second pitch is super causal. about 5.7. More people should do this route! it is the best single pitch on SCW IMO Apr 30, 2017

Jesse Yon
Sawpit, CO

5.11

One of the coolest bolted granite lines I’ve climbed. The .10+ traverse packs a fair bit of climbing into a short pitch. It’s a must-do! Jul 3, 2020

michalm

5.11

Unimaginably good, insecure climbing with amazing rock, proper bolt spacing, and gripping exposure on the last pitch.
A #0.5 C4 with a sling was nice to protect the moderate, mossy dirt chute before the topout anchor.
The belays and lead bolts are all modern stainless.
Recommend climbing Psychopath/Iconoclast linkup into the Edge of Space with the Yellow Wall variation for a varied, high quality outing. Walking off for the first time by headlamp is not recommended. Sep 17, 2020

Ryan Westby
Portland, OR

This finish really deserves more traffic. JFYI it's very easy to get to this from Outer Space.
The 10d bit felt about the same difficulty as Hitchhiker's 11a slab.
With a 5'10" span I was able to reach the first hold of the slab, any smaller and I think you'll have to huck a bit.
The arete felt similar to a Smith arete. I'll echo the note in the description about bringing your edging shoes. Jun 21, 2023

Derrick Meyers
Kirkland, WA

I second the last pitch being the best pitch on SCW. It’s a 4/4 star classic pitch at INDEX all day! Spectacular movement up truly impeccable stone in a WILD position. PERSONALLY I thought the 10d traverse pitch felt more like 11b and the 11b Arete felt more like 11a. And I was following the former and leading the latter. May 26, 2024

Benjamin Haggerty
Seattle, WA

To chime in on pitch difficulty, the 10d pitch felt like a runout purple SBP slab route into an orange. The 11b pitch was more of a sustained purple, but with lots of exposure (think lunging for the top of the wall at poplar). Rock has great friction the whole way (unless climbing in the sun, then it will feel like pasting your feet on dual tex). Jun 17, 2024

Alex Gore
North Bend

5.11

So good. I'm 5'6" and had to jump for the first hold (with a good belay you're almost on TR for that move). It gets more difficult after that, but I didn't feel any of the hard climbing was reachy/height dependent. I also thought the pitches were true to the listed grades with the second being slightly harder than the first.
A black totem can be used to protect the dirty corner top-out on P2, but I don't think anyone capable of leading P2 up to that point would find it necessary. Sep 17, 2024