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Routes in Wallface
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Case Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free Ride T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lewis Elijah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mental Blocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 |
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Mission to Mars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Man's a Pilot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 |
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Out with the boys again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pay As You Go T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Prelude to Gravity T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 860 ft (261 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | 1962 Rutledge, Tom and Jane Morgan |
| Page Views: | 50,922 total · 313/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Heckeler on Jul 6, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
P1 5.5 G - Climb the left facing corner (right side) of depression for 60 feet, then move across the face to a left leaning small ledge system (crux). Follow this up for a few moves, then traverse right across slabby terrain up to the fixed anchors, or instead of traversing right continue up the left leaning ledge and traverse above this area to a belay to the right of a roof on a slab (below some trees). 180 feet
P2 5.5 G (with variants up to 5.8 near the top of the pitch) - Continue up and right for 50 feet, then go straight up into a groove at the steeper section of rock. [to the left on the steeper section there are harder variations, including the left most corner/quasi-chimney that goes about 5.8] Climb this to the base of the ramp (crux). 180 feet
P3 5.3 G (PG runout?) - Climb the ramp, following the path of least resistance to a belay above a large block (fixed gear slung around large flake/boulder 50 feet above a tree in the corner). 150 feet
P4 5.5 G - Climb below the right facing/leaning corner above the belay for 25 feet (traversing up and right), then regain the main corner and follow this to a short wall. Climb this to the top anchors (crux) at the left end of a large ledge. 150 feet
P5 4th Class - Traverse right along a large ledge 60 feet to some trees below a large right facing corner with a slanting roof about 15 feet up.
P6 5.8 G - Climb the corner, then traverse under a ceiling into a flared chimney (crux) and a right facing corner. At the top of the corner at a grassy ledge step left to the base of another right facing corner. [can sling large block leaning against wall] 70 feet
P7 5.8 G - Climb steep right facing corner to the top fixed anchors. 80 feet
Location
Descend using (2) 60m ropes. 4 Raps
Generally Wallface is most accessible sometime May thru early October. Black Flies particularly bad June into July. Exact start/end of climbing season and bugs varies year to year. The approach has many spots that get wet after a good rain or during Spring runoff. This will slow you down significantly. Many choose to camp overnight to split up the trip.
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