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Routes in Bell's Beast
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Beast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beauty T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Belle of the Beast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 May 2011 FFA: Peter Vintoniv and JG, 10 June 2011 |
| Page Views: | 3,634 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
From the bivy platform (sheltered, shaded and nice lunch and rope up spot), walk east along the base of the Beast until reaching its lowest point. White colored compact granite similar to that found higher on the creature's face marks the spot.
Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.
From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m
Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.
Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.
Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.
Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.
Walk off to the west gully.
Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.
From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m
Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.
Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.
Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.
Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.
Walk off to the west gully.
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