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Routes in Sugarloaf
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Banana Peel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brexit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crescendo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flea Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Eyebrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Left Eyebrow to North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Many Times (a.k.a. Backside Cracks or Crackle Top) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Old North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Right Eyebrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,140 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Jun 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This prominent right facing corner is just to the left of Science Friction (to Left Eyebrow), and is another variation start to the Left Eyebrow. It is a very attractive corner, which peels back to the right for 150ft. It is made for lay-backing, and offers just enough stances to keep from getting too strenuous.
P1: Start off to the right from the corner and climb in to the left on good flakes and ledges. Get into the corner and layback your way up 150ft. You'll pass some hollow sounding flakes along the way, so tread carefully and test the rock.
P2: Lesser quality and easier corner system. 5.4 climbing for 200-250 ft to join up with Left Eyebrow. Granite is a bit crumbly and there are loose sections, but the lower angle keeps it from being sketchy.
P1: Start off to the right from the corner and climb in to the left on good flakes and ledges. Get into the corner and layback your way up 150ft. You'll pass some hollow sounding flakes along the way, so tread carefully and test the rock.
P2: Lesser quality and easier corner system. 5.4 climbing for 200-250 ft to join up with Left Eyebrow. Granite is a bit crumbly and there are loose sections, but the lower angle keeps it from being sketchy.
Location
Hike almost all the way up to the great eye of Sugarloaf. The right-facing corner will be pretty obvious, and is just to the left of the ultra-thin slab climb Science Friction.
Protection
The crack is often hand-fist sized, so appropriate cams are nice to have. However, other gear can be found as well up the corner, so a regular rack should be adequate. A fixed yellow metolius cam is at the crux, and can be hard to clip since it is jammed in pretty deep. A bolted anchor can be found at the top of the first pitch.
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