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Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route)
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 31
votes
Routes in Jailhouse Rock
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Chain Gang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rhumb Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pulp Friction S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Violated S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Early Release S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Line Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kingpin S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Supreme Being S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Burrito Supreme S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Minimum Burrito S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Minimum Security S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lemmens Sauce S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Whipping Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hard Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hang Time S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hang Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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War Machine A.K.A. Yoga High S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Treason S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Texas Seven S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Enemy Combatant S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Warden, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lock-Off S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lock Down S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Mistaken Identity S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Scared Straight S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Community Service S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Petty Offense S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Lethal Injection S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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[Redacted] S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shield, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Underage Linking S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Mother Lode S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Iron Junkie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Anemia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Iron Throne S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cuddle Bunnies S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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San Quentin S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Big House S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Big House Right ext S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Juice, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cheddar Bunnies S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Criminal Justice Reform S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Capitol Punishment S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Statute of Limitations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Full House S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Haul of Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Overhaul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Uhaul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Strange Ways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stranger Ways S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Misdemeanor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Criming S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Electric Chair S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Governor, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Three Strikes And You're Out S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fried Chicken S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cell Block S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Birdman S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Guilty Until Proven Innocent S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Alcatraz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Escape from Alcatraz S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Life Sentence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Death Sentence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Soap on a Rope S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Forced Entry S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Tossed Salad S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flower Power S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Tower of Power S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Green Mile S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Knee to Knee S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Knee to Tower S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Knee to Mile S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Fryerplace S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Toe to Toe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grab Your Toes, Boy! S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Unforgiven S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Pardon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Wabi Sabi S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Assassin S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Mark, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Jailbait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lolita S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Skid Row S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Skitz Row S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Death Row S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dead Man Walking S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hardened Criminal S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Fugitive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tommy Lee S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Most Wanted (AKA Full Fugitive) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Smooth Criminal S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Arsonist S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Public Burning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Texas Illegal Activity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Common Thug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Public Mayhem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pick Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flight Risk S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slammer S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shackled S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Conjugal Visit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blacklisted S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Felon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cuckoo's Nest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Straight Jacket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Dan McDevitt |
| Page Views: | 4,348 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Simon on Jun 18, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing.
Details
LOCK THE GATE! Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.
For the current gate code and rules, visit accessfund.org/capabilities…
Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
For the current gate code and rules, visit accessfund.org/capabilities…
Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
- No dogs on the property
- Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
- No loud music
- No fires
- No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
- Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
- No littering
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
Photos
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