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Cascadian Couloir

Name: Cascadian Couloir
Rating: 1.9

3rd YDS 1- French 1 Ewbanks I UIAA 1 ZA M 1a British Easy Snow

Routes in Mt Stuart

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	Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
	Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
	Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
	King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
	South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4
	Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
	West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft (1364 m), Grade II
FA:	Samuel Gannett (1895, FKA)
Page Views:	9,150 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Bruce Lacroix on Jun 18, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route is the climber descent route, with some class 3 rock, when melted out. In winter and spring, it is a popular ski descent and snow climb. Cornices can form on the summit ridge.

From the Ingalls Creek Trail, take one of several access trails around the 4800-5000 ft elevation, approx. 0.1 mile downstream of the Long's Pass trail junction. Follow the trail(s) through trees and brush until the angle steepens and the terrain becomes more loose and rocky. Bypass several small cliffs and continue climbing up the gully. Around 8000 ft cross a minor ridge to the east (climber's left) and continue up loose sand and scree. Scramble up through a notch around 9000 ft near the false summit, then make a rising traverse to the true summit (cairns and bivy sites are numerous here).

When descending, make sure to stay high enough to go through the false summit notch around 9000 ft before dropping down. It is easy to descend too early and enter the wrong couloir.