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Routes in Lion's Head
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Lion Cling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hakuna Matada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lion of Judah S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Simba's Pride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Peter Heekin. 2005. |
| Page Views: | 1,326 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jun 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Another fun two-pitch route up the center of the formation, Lion of Judah shares the first nice 5.9 pitch of Hakuna Matada but heads up the right side of the upper headwall on similar cool patina holds but at a more moderate grade.
Climb the fine first pitch of Hakuna Matada past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.
From the belay, head up the right line of bolts on steep but positive patina features past six bolts to a bolt and chain anchor.
Two single rope raps with a 60m or 70m rope will get you back down.
Climb the fine first pitch of Hakuna Matada past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.
From the belay, head up the right line of bolts on steep but positive patina features past six bolts to a bolt and chain anchor.
Two single rope raps with a 60m or 70m rope will get you back down.
Location
The middle of the Lion's Head formation. Identify the bolts of pitch one leading up past cool features and jugs. The upper pitch of Hakuna Matada will be obvious.
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