All Locations > Maine > -Acadia NP > Precipice aka The S Wall

Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)

Name: Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Rating: 3.4

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 5.15+ 9b+ 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b
	Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Tom Hayden and Sandy Dunlap, May 1972
Page Views:	3,026 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Dustin Lagoy on Jun 10, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

Start straight up from the Gunklandia second (often first) pitch bolted anchor. Climb through some easy ledges to the short but sweet hand crack and into an easy offwidth section. Head out left on the flake and up the short left facing corner to the top.

Location

A mid-cliff START: Straight up from the Gunklandia bolted belay, look for the left leaning flake on the face above.

Protection

Standard rack, a #3 might be helpful for the flake but is in no way necessary.

History (from Sandy Dunlap's suggestion)

First Ascent. Tom Hayden and I (Sandy Dunlap) did the first ascent in May 1972 and we wrote it up in "Appalachia" (the AMC journal) in the June 1973 issue (page 163-165) with Illustrations by Bill Atkinson. We later learned that the first pitch of our climb, which Tom led, had been done before (Gunklandia). I led the crack and flake upper pitch, scraping inch high lichen off with my feet as I went out the flake. We took a picture afterwards and one can see our relatively light footprints in the black lichen. I recently retired and am sorting through old photos; when I find the Birch Ade shots, I will add them to the site.

Sandy Dunlap

303-476-0295

sandydunlap@comcast.net