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Routes in Shadow Rock
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1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desperado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Lycra S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Offense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sense of Balance S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Shadow Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Simple Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Kelly Farris & John Knight |
| Page Views: | 1,629 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | John Knight on Jun 2, 2011 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is not a separate route but a new start variation to Fat Man. I believe it has enough and different climbing to warrant a separate listing. You'll clip 3 bolts on the right side of the gully then you'll join Fat Man at bolt #2 (8 bolts total).
The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.
The crux for me was dealing with the lichen after clipping bolt #3. I'm sure it will clean up over time and may settle in at 5.9 instead of 5.10a.
Location
Start at the base of the gully, just left of the Thin Man start. Scramble up the gully about half way then move right and up to clip the first Middle Man bolt. You'll get 2 more "new bolts" then you'll join Fat Man (at Fat Man bolt #2).
The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.
The climb is a full 180' so be sure your belayer ties in to the rope or you will get lowered off into the ether. You can rap down to the base of Fat Man with a single rope rap.
3 Comments