South Face Right

This route is described in Green's book (1998:195-196), so I figured it warrants its own entry here too.
Face moves off the ground, with thin pro, lead to more secure jamming above. Watch out for a scary loose flake down low, which can be bypassed. After a big ledge at 100 feet (optional belay here), climb shattered blocks to the notch, and belay. Head right, up to the high summit (if you look for it, there is good pro on the summit block).
[Edit 2016]. Frankly, starting about 10 feet left on South Face Direct and climbing that 5.8 flare to the top of the pillar at 25', and then stepping right, back on to this route above the loose flakes, makes for an excellent and much more well-protected start. From the top of that pillar at 25', a second pitch can easily go all the way to the top of the east summit.

This line starts in a left-facing corner up the right side of an inset pillar on the peak's south face, leading to the notch between the twin summits and thencely to the east summit.
It appears that there is a rap line from the summit that drops down to the climber's right of this route. An intermediate bolted rap station can be found on a boulder to climber's right and down from the 100' ledge on P1 (so only 1 60m rope needed).
But I would guess that most people are probably going to tag both summits, and end up rapping the standard line off the west summit.

Single set of nuts and double cams to #3 C4 are good. A thin seam down low needs stuff like gray and purple TCU's and small nuts. Hands above that, and fingers on the summit block.