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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Lower Meadow
> 3 Greatest Show Area
Big Top
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 19
votes
Routes in 3 Greatest Show Area
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Back to Power T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bearded Lady T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Top T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blackened Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bullion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Great White Dihedral aka Begoon/Artz Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Greatest Show On Earth, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hack Attack aka Carny Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Interpreting Intermission S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Join the Circus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Another Pretty Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mango Tango S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Monsterotica S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pretty Faces Call Me Daddy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Puppy Chow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ringmaster, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ruda Tovar (AKA Porter's 12c) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scratchy Biscuits T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ziggerknot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Lynn Hill, Russ Raffa 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,970 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on May 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
This is a very aesthetic-looking splitter crack, which starts about forty feet up and above a roof. To start, you can either scramble up easy terrain to the left, or do a direct start through some steep horizontals that adds some 5.11 R climbing. Easy climbing up to a juggy roof with some suspect rock, clip a couple fixed pieces, and get an almost-no hands rest at the base of the splitter.
I don't want to give too much beta away on the splitter, except to say that there is very little true jamming/crack climbing on this route.
The first ascent continued past where the bolt anchor is at the base of the upper roof and went to the top. This last 25 feet through the juggy roof is amazing. We've all been cheated out of the route's best climbing by lowering from the first anchor. Mikey added a top anchor so now it's easy to continue to the top, lower back to the first anchor, untie, pull the rope, and lower again. It'd be a nightmare to try to clean it from the top. It's definitely worth the extra effort.
I don't want to give too much beta away on the splitter, except to say that there is very little true jamming/crack climbing on this route.
The first ascent continued past where the bolt anchor is at the base of the upper roof and went to the top. This last 25 feet through the juggy roof is amazing. We've all been cheated out of the route's best climbing by lowering from the first anchor. Mikey added a top anchor so now it's easy to continue to the top, lower back to the first anchor, untie, pull the rope, and lower again. It'd be a nightmare to try to clean it from the top. It's definitely worth the extra effort.
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