[Hide Comment] This is really a very good route. Best done in one pitch, it's quite long, at least 65 meters. Make sure to bring enough gear and slings. I placed 18 pieces, plus a slung bush, and I didn't feel like I sewed it up. Jun 19, 2011

[Hide Comment] Great Trad route! Quality crack!....I led the full length and would next time bring more pieces from .5 BD cams up to #2 BD cams. May 5, 2013

[Hide Comment] Looked at this route before and thought it looked kinda scrappy.
Did it today and found out it's a great quality route worth doing. May 25, 2013

[Hide Comment] Highly recommended! Sep 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] I think this earns the 10a given in the guide book. Super classic jamming! A bit strenuous at times. If you're a new 5.9 leader, beware. I broke it up into two pitches because I was worried about having all the right sizes of gear. I did a comfortable, semi-hanging belay after the traverse from the 1"--2" vert splitter encountered on the right hand wall. I was almost exactly half way on my 70 meter rope. We did three raps down the face as recommended in the book--worked great, with excellent stances. Get on this route! Jun 29, 2019

[Hide Comment] 1 pitch with 80m rope (70m should be enough). Didn't place any gear smaller than 0.3 BD. The route goes into shade around noon, but usually there's a nice breeze from up the canyon and the anchor get into shade before the route does. As Amy W said, additional 0.5 BD to 2BD may be helpful if led in in one pitch (I ended up with second 3BD on my harness) Aug 12, 2019

[Hide Comment] This is a classic route! A kind of scrappy first 10m turns into very fun climbing, with the highlight for me being the beautiful hand jamming while moving up the final stretch of the corner, wow!

To me, the hardest single move would be after the meat of hand crack on the right-hand face, where there’s kind of an awkward stretch.

Take a heavy rack with emphasis on .4 to 2 camalot if you’re going to tackle this in one pitch. My partner wanted to try and get a bigger lead under her belt, but decided to back off of that awkward cruxy spot in the middle of the climb. I led it from the bottom, back cleaning a lot of her pieces, and I was still a bit stretched for pro by the time I finished. Save your gold camalots for the second half would be my recommendation.

As far as the grade does, to me it felt a tad harder than 5.9 - I think that .10a is totally fair considering the length and sustained nature of the route.

Would definitely do this one again, what fun! Rappelled with a single rope - it was a breeze. Nov 24, 2019

[Hide Comment] Just a heads up. The rappel route is on the face next to the climb, so you must have your follower clean the pieces. We were hoping to each individually lead it but that's not possible. Also the route is definitely less the 70m, probably closer to 65m. Sep 20, 2023

[Hide Comment] Top half of this thing is pretty mega... easy descent in two raps with an 80m Jun 9, 2024

[Hide Comment] top half is great, bottom half is mid, crux is the left slanting crack halfway, plenty of rests Jul 14, 2024