PRINT: Rock Climb Doris Gets Her Oats, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Doris Gets Her Oats

5.8+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: Jim Stuberg and Mike Brooks, 1981
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a fun route with good moves. A #6 can be bumped up all the way through the fist half with other protection available, but none are as trustworthy as a giant cam. After the wide crack (no off-width moves required), there is a tricky move leaving a ledge and launching onto some suspect flakes. The rest of this crack seemed dirty and loose and had some scary blocks above, so I decided to top out on the right crack instead (recommended). The right crack is the top of Heddie La Rue and is really fun. Although not the crux of that route, this upper crack may be the crux of this route. Solid and steep rock with good protection and pretty big moves more than make up for the lichen.

Location

This is all the way at the upper end of Redgarden Wall and just left of Heddie La Rue where the walk off trail hits the ground. This is the obvious wide crack you may have noticed on your walk down from Rewritten. After belaying at the tree on top, scramble up around the left side (big loose blocks) and duck through a notch to the north to join the descent trail.

Protection

Standard rack and some big gear. One #6 is helpful. There is a big tree on the top to belay from and a pretty easy walk off. An extra #3 is nice, because there are lots of #3 placements on the first half, but it is a good idea to have one near the top since there isn't much else. If you only have one, try to save it for the top out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of the cool/crux moves involves a super high step to that left hand hold....

Looking down @ the top half.

Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue on the right.

In the thin crack near the top. This is the end of Heddie La Rue which is better than the finish to the left on Doris.

Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.

Starting out with the wide crack visible above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CurranH

5.8+

Was able to protect the route one each of BD #5, #4, #3 on the big side and then a smattering of gear #2 and smaller either deep in the offwidth or on the upper portions of the route. Bottom half of the route was a blast, top half was a little chossy. Sep 1, 2019