Star Chek
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.5 from 459 votes
Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Kevin McLane and Sig Isaac 1995, with help from Ron Goldstone. |
Page Views: | 96,769 total · 585/month |
Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Apr 17, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
There are four pitches, 5.8, 5.7, 5.7 and 5.9. Pitch linkups are possible anywhere, but most commonly via pitches 2 and 3, and/or 3 and 4. Take 6 draws, or 10+ for linkups. An alternate 5.8 pitch 4 finish was developed in 2024, The HOV Lane, and reduces the overall grade to 5.8.
P1: 20m 5.8, 4 bolts. Start a few metres above the river below a crackline, one metre left of Indra's Net. Climb up to the crackline then move onto the face to the right then to the crest of the arete and a belay ledge.
P2: 20m, 5.7, 4 bolts. Climb on and just left of the crest of the low-angle arete to a ledge and a good station.
P3: 20m, 5.7, 4 bolts Continue left of the crest to a large terrace-line ledge below twin dihedrals and a choice of belay stations.
P4: 25m, 5.9, 3 bolts. Start up the dihedral wall left of the arete, then into the crux on the crest up a short overlap. Most of the pitch is 5.7. At the top, either belay on the large Indra's Net ledge (and have direct contact with your second below) or continue to the upper ledges and anchors (communication difficult.).
P4 ALT: The HOV Lane, 25m, 5.8 sport, 6 bolts. (FA as a sport route Roxy Bauer 2024.) This is the appealing fingers to fist crack in the lefthand dihedral. Excellent sustained climbing to an unusual finish. Taking this line reduces the grade of Star Chek to 5.8. Originally climbed on gear, it was bolted in early 2024 to alleviate lineups for Star Chek's 5.9 pitch.
P4 ALT: Chek it Out, 25m, 5.10c sport (FA Ron Goldstone 1995). This is the high-angle slab out to the left, finishing through a steep bulge to the upper ledges.
Location
Star Chek is a 4-pitch 5.9 sport climb in the Sea to Sky region of British Columbia, a 25 minute drive north of the Squamish Chief, and just 4km (2½ miles) north of the popular Chek climbing area. Parking is at a large prominent tourist turnout on the southbound lane of Highway 99, 28km (17½ miles) north of downtown Squamish. Caution is warranted as turning left into it is posted as illegal, and for good reason when southbound traffic is heavy. For a safer entry to the parking continue north downhill for some 300 metres to a wide gravel pullout on the right where sightlines are good to turnaround into the southbound lane to reach the parking area.
At the north end of the parking hop over the concrete barrier to a little rock and scree drop to the Star Chek approach trail, which leads down in 10 minutes to the river’s edge and the start of the climb. As the trail approaches the Cheakamus River Canyon it wanders off left and up a little. Where it emerges from the trees it strikes off right across large boulders then down to traverse the wide, unstable scree slope poised above the river. At this point the big arete of Star Chek is ahead in full view. A narrow trail snakes across the talus down to river’s edge at the foot of the arete. In the early season the trail can be sketchy due to winter rainstorm damage but usually gets adequate by May. The start of Star Chek is a few metres above the river below an obvious crackline. Just a metre to the right is the start of Indra’s Net, angling up right above a distinct triangular roof.
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