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Routes in Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Classic Handcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Two Out of Three Ain't Bad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 135 ft (41 m) |
| FA: | Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, May 1994 |
| Page Views: | 4,693 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Jared Spaulding on Mar 28, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
Permits are required for climbing and bouldering within Capitol Reef Nat'l Park.
Updated (2024) NPS permit information here: home.nps.gov/care/planyourv…
Updated (2024) NPS permit information here: home.nps.gov/care/planyourv…
Description
This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.
Location
This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.
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