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Routes in River Tower
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[Redacted] T A5 |
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[Redacted] T A5 |
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Flow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1 R |
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Rasta Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4 |
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| Type: | Aid, 440 ft (133 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Jim Beyer in the 80's |
| Page Views: | 6,161 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Forrester on Mar 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1- Obvious splitter beak crack to tension traverse to another beak crack. There is a loose flake with some big swing potential. Go up through two roofs, then up C1/2 crack to two bolt anchor in alcove. One new bolt added to anchor to replace old POS bolt. Need small gear to supplement anchor, we used a beak and a small angle. 140'
P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'
P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.
P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.
P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.
Descent - Rap the route
P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'
P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.
P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.
P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.
Descent - Rap the route
Location
The route is on the SW aspect of River Tower. Find the start by hiking up to the obvious prow and peeking around the corner to the south. If you need more help than that, hit yourself in the head with your hammer and hope you don't survive.
Protection
Beaks helpful in lieu of knifeblades. Standard fishers aid rack with a couple leeper-z and a few bigger angles. Can leave all the big iron at home. Big cams make life more fun. Off set aliens helpful. As mentioned in the description, each anchor has at least one new bolt to augment the old stuff.
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