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Crater Genetics
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Elephant Dome
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B Cubed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crater Genetics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Diagonemesis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elephant's Trunk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elephantiasis T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Dave Deschamps, Jamie Burns, and many others, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,605 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Aleix Serrat on Feb 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed
Details
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Access Issue: There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area.
Details
There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
Description
If you have bailed from other mentally and physically challenging routes in Arizona such as Sensory Desuetude or Coming to Grips, you may actually be able to finish this one.
A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.
A good description of every pitch can be found here:
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
Variation: In pitch 5, after the bomb-bay offwidth on "ultra-polished" holds (not as bad as it sounds) and before the chimney with death blocks, there is a 1 bold, I mean 1 bolt variation where you clip a bolt at the base and to the left of the chimney and climb on the outside of it (by Jim Scott and Virgil Davis).
Almost all the pitches are full rope-lengths.
The wall is mostly south facing, but the upper headwall (from top of P3) goes into the shade around 2 or 3pm. Plan accordingly depending on temperatures. It can be hot and sweaty in the sun or quite cold in the shade.
A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.
A good description of every pitch can be found here:
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
Variation: In pitch 5, after the bomb-bay offwidth on "ultra-polished" holds (not as bad as it sounds) and before the chimney with death blocks, there is a 1 bold, I mean 1 bolt variation where you clip a bolt at the base and to the left of the chimney and climb on the outside of it (by Jim Scott and Virgil Davis).
Almost all the pitches are full rope-lengths.
The wall is mostly south facing, but the upper headwall (from top of P3) goes into the shade around 2 or 3pm. Plan accordingly depending on temperatures. It can be hot and sweaty in the sun or quite cold in the shade.
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