PRINT: Rock Climb Sunny and Sheer, Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Sunny and Sheer

5.12a R, Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 18 votes
FA: FA: Eric Fazio-Ricard FFA: Krzysztof Gorny, July 2015
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…

When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).

Description

Great exposure and fun pumpy face climbing up the arete to the left of Palisaid and Hidden Treasure.

Climb the obvious multi-layered juggy flake that does not appear to be attached to anything for 30 feet into a series of big holds followed by the balancy and technical crux on the right side of the arete. For full-value, move back left past some calcite following a crack system with face holds to the top. For an easier escape, climb to the right of the arete.

Location

The arete to climbers left of Palisaid and Hidden Treasure.

Protection

Plenty of small cams (c3's and up to 0.75 c4's). Few good shallow placements in solid horizontal cracks. Some 'good looking' placements in questionable rock that would hold body weight. Burly crux protects with few decent pieces (including dyneema sling around the jug hold).

Gear anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sailing between water and rock on Sunny and Sheer. July 4, 2015. <br>
Photo: Ted Kryzer.

Sailing between water and rock on Sunny and Sheer. July 4, 2015. Photo: Ted Kryzer.

Dave Groth doing a lap on Sunny And Shear.

Charlie H. finding some friction

Leading Sunny and Sheer. July 4th, 2015.

Nik rapping in on a breathtaking evening - 7:20pm August 19th, 2023

the delicate yet unyielding arete, I hope it lasts for years to enjoy. Michael following, photo credits by a kind passerby named nick

Tan on Sunny and Sheer!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

North Shore Chalker
Duluth, MN

Highly underrated route and best North Shore 12a IMO. The exposure and movement is really great. Just a shame there isn't better pro. Mar 30, 2021

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson

Did this route in the 80s with Dave Pagel who authored the guidebook Superior Climbs. He and I TRd a number of routes that day. I love aretes and spied Sunny and Sheer and wanted to TR it. Got it first go, no hangs no falls. Always meant to get back and add some bolts to make it a more leadable climb. It is a shame that some titanium glue ins can't be added to make it something other than R. Still a fun top-rope. Hats off to Mr. Gorny on the first lead of this climb. Jun 17, 2022

North Shore Chalker
Duluth, MN

Bummer, woulda been a killer and popular sport route instead of an overlooked horror show that no one wants to lead. Jun 20, 2022