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Great Chimney

5.6, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 40 votes
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Jim Goodwin
New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Description

P1: The start is a scramble up some blocks to a right facing corner. Up this to the opening of the chimney. Surmount the chockstone (crux) and into the mountain you go. Fixed anchor for belay. 5.6

P2: Scramble into the chimney to a thin crack on the road-side wall and begin to stem up the chimney. Eventually, step left to fixed anchor. 5.5

P3: Traverse across and downclimb to the summit boulders near the top of "Pete's Farewell". 5.2

Location

Start same as "Pete's Farewell".

Protection

Some nuts and cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bouldery start to the first pitch of "The Chimney", 11/13/2010.
[Hide Photo] Bouldery start to the first pitch of "The Chimney", 11/13/2010.
Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "window" for a nice view of Cascade Lakes
[Hide Photo] Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "window" for a nice view of Cascade Lakes
Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "Great Chimney", 11/13/2010.
[Hide Photo] Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "Great Chimney", 11/13/2010.
View from the 2nd pitch.
[Hide Photo] View from the 2nd pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Harrison
  5.6
[Hide Comment] For Pitch 2, one can also chimney directly upward from the top of P1, then exit roadside through a "window" onto the main face. A short bit of climbing leads up to a ledge with a fixed anchor which can be used to descend into the chimney down to the P1 fixed anchor, or with 70m rope, down the face to the starting ledge. This latter method is tight; be sure your rope ends reach the ledge. Dec 7, 2012
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] If you follow the original route description or the Adirondack Rock description for P2, I found "step left" a little confusing---left while facing which wall?

Once you get to the square notch after stemming, the fixed anchor the guide mentions is up on the main (inner) face ~8' above the notch, behind you and to the left as you're facing the road (or up and to the right if you're facing the mountain).

Actually a fun exploration of a super cool feature. Sep 6, 2016
Chris Mp
Toronto, ON
[Hide Comment] P3 is the best pitch of the climb, that traverse across the top was not what I was expecting!!
For P2, we did not stem at all, we just climbed up the thin crack on the road-side wall. Climbing the thin crack felt more difficult than 5.5. I didn't even try to stem and I'm tall...those walls must be getting farther apart cause stem-ing did not seem like the way to go. Sep 15, 2016
Coreshot Copp
Apple Valley, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] The window variation is sweet action. May 11, 2022
C
 
[Hide Comment] Second Chris’s comment that it doesn’t make sense for me to stem at all.. using the crack itself definitely is not 5.5 either… unless you’re over 6ft(?) maybe you can reach the ledge in the middle section more easily Jun 15, 2024