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Rite of Spring

5.10+, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
Connecticut > Central Valley > E Peak > Rite of Spring
Warning Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. DetailsDrop down

Description

A beautiful, overhanging crack line, that has a cave like start. The first 25ft, consists of the powerful crux with awkward jams and technical moves. Fun climbing on the warmest winter section of walls in CT.

Location

To the left of the Amphitheater proper. Between Castle Crag and the Amphitheater. Look for the obvious hard looking, overhanging crack line. To get down, walk around the block it's left side back to the start of the route.

Protection

Good gear, standard modern rack, selection of stoppers and cams to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bottom of the route is obvious, just above the cave.
[Hide Photo] Bottom of the route is obvious, just above the cave.
The crack just above the cave.
[Hide Photo] The crack just above the cave.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Rite of Spring is an example of one of the finest traprock climbs in the State and is recommeded for any local or visiting climber.

Like many climbs in CT, a seemingly stout-for-the-grade on-sight ascent would be a proud and somewhat serious endeavor. However, with some reconnaissance, this CT classic is more approachable than it may seem; rewarding precise movement, attention to detail, and careful selection of footholds, combined with excellent gear.

Top-Rope Anchor:

A "standard CT top rope" can be set up from 2 large trees with around 75’ of static rope or webbing behind the large top-out platform. Get the master-point to hang in the corner below the 4’ tall evergreen where the climb tops-out. You can use a blue tricam, or similar, in a crack skier’s left of this tree to keep the anchor from sliding skier’s right if you feel the need.

To access this area from the base of the climb, head climbers left for a few hundred feet, then up a somewhat loose open gully that trends right. The top-out platform is where this gully levels off, before getting all the way up to the blue trail.


Climb safe and enjoy this stellar route! May 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] FA- Bruce Dicks, Greg Newth, February 1976
For a short while this desperate little climb was "The" Connecticut test-piece to do before Dol Guldur was climbed later in the same year. It was considered the first 10+ in the state, and repeating it became "mandatory" for aspiring hard-boys. I imagine, even with today's standards, on-sighting it feels like an accomplishment. It was named after Stravinsky's famous symphony. Jan 4, 2022