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East Chimney/South Face
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Ambush Peak
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Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R |
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Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Pat Callis & Gordon McFeters 1969 |
| Page Views: | 3,683 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Jared Spaulding on Nov 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This route climbs the impressive 150' south chimney on the east face of Ambush. This is a fun route that climbs a super fun classic chimney and climbs a big peak at a moderate grade and rating. As seen in the beta photo, start at the base of a gully that climbs up the center of the east face.
Scramble up the gully to the base of the chimney. This could involve some fifth class systems depending on your comfort level or if you wanted to climb harder fifth class rock to the left of the gully.
Belay close to the base of the chimney and worm up some mossy rock, past a chockstone (crux) with somewhat unprotected moves. Establish yourself inside the chimney and climb this classic chimney and exit on climber's right (pro will go into a thin crack on climber's left, then stem to climber's right) and belay atop the chimney from a slung chockstone and #3 camalot at a good ledge.
Next either choose the path of least resistance, aiming up and left to the notch, or conversely, choose the path of most resistance, aiming up and more right toward the summit.
I went up and slightly left for 196' on cracks and ramps at 5.5
Then I went up 190' through an open book dihedral and belayed in a big protected corner (5.6).
From there I climbed up and left 150' to a wide terrace, passing a 5.8 friction move on an overlap in black rock and more good friction moves up a slabby crack and face.
I scrambled up, then due left to above a notch. From there I scrambled 3rd class terrain to the summit.
Scramble up the gully to the base of the chimney. This could involve some fifth class systems depending on your comfort level or if you wanted to climb harder fifth class rock to the left of the gully.
Belay close to the base of the chimney and worm up some mossy rock, past a chockstone (crux) with somewhat unprotected moves. Establish yourself inside the chimney and climb this classic chimney and exit on climber's right (pro will go into a thin crack on climber's left, then stem to climber's right) and belay atop the chimney from a slung chockstone and #3 camalot at a good ledge.
Next either choose the path of least resistance, aiming up and left to the notch, or conversely, choose the path of most resistance, aiming up and more right toward the summit.
I went up and slightly left for 196' on cracks and ramps at 5.5
Then I went up 190' through an open book dihedral and belayed in a big protected corner (5.6).
From there I climbed up and left 150' to a wide terrace, passing a 5.8 friction move on an overlap in black rock and more good friction moves up a slabby crack and face.
I scrambled up, then due left to above a notch. From there I scrambled 3rd class terrain to the summit.
Location
This route is located on the east face of Ambush (Point 12,173) in the East Fork Valley
To reach the East Fork Valley, there are several options. To get to the valley one could do many things. I suggest hiking the Fremont Trail from Big Sandy Opening Trailhead and then taking the Pyramid Lake Trail to Pyramid Lake. This is about 11-13 miles. One could camp south of or north of Midsummer's Dome or at Pyramid Lake.
To get down from the top descend west slopes, traversing south to a saddle between Ambush and Geikie. Descend saddle to the east on loose scree back to base of Ambush.
To reach the East Fork Valley, there are several options. To get to the valley one could do many things. I suggest hiking the Fremont Trail from Big Sandy Opening Trailhead and then taking the Pyramid Lake Trail to Pyramid Lake. This is about 11-13 miles. One could camp south of or north of Midsummer's Dome or at Pyramid Lake.
To get down from the top descend west slopes, traversing south to a saddle between Ambush and Geikie. Descend saddle to the east on loose scree back to base of Ambush.
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