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Routes in M) Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Steve Cater, Jason Babkirk 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,958 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Shawn Heath on Nov 21, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
***Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)***
The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.
The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.
Location
This route begins far to the right of Fantasy and Aesthetica, and you have to climb up a 4-5 ft. boulder to get to the base of it when approaching from those climbs. You'll see it before you round the corner, so Aesthetica will still be in sight. It's to the right of The Orgasmatron which has a beautiful splitter in the middle of the face.
Photos
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