All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Middle Mother's

The Ol' Hucklebuck

Name: The Ol' Hucklebuck
Rating: 3.2

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Middle Mother's

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Alacrity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Brevity T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Definite Article T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Denotation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Denouement T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	No Name 2 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	White Lightning T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA:	Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem
Page Views:	950 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Jesse Zacher on Nov 6, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

This is a great warmup for the other routes to the right and left. A long, moderate climb with a little bit of everything on great rock.

Pull through two bolts and place some small hard to find pro. Look to the left and right as you climb up for the seams that will take a #0.4 Camalot and a blue Metolius. Gain a ledge and climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral that looks like a giant offwidth. Do not let this turn you away. The corner climbs with face and arete features with minimal OW. Pull a fun move over a roof and gain a face split with many cracks. The easiest way through is by trending right and up for 20 feet and traversing back left to the obvious ledge.

This puts you in perfect position to continue up "On Golden Pond".

Location

The route starts 10 feet left of Flora Dora and 30 feet right of Free Falling.

There is an obvious double ring rap station at the top of the pitch. Bring two ropes!

This also serves as the rap route for any of the climbs that continue for the second pitch. The second pitch anchors have been replaced as well.

Protection

A double set from blue metolious to #3 Camalot. One #4 and one #5 Camalot. Two draws for the beginning and lots of slings! It is a long pitch, so extend everything!