Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | P. Van Betten, J. Smith 1986 |
Page Views: | 3,655 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | hanshan on Oct 31, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
P1. Pretty casual 10a up the left facing corner. Transition to the left crack where a small tree grows out of the top. Belay on gear on comfy ledge (.75 - #2 cams) (140 feet)
P2. It gets real here with pretty sustained 5.10 climbing. Continue up the crack, placing pro before face climbing left under the roof. Continue up and around the roof on thin cracks (the jammed knot and nut anchor described in Handren's guide is gone). Continue up the crack, aiming for a ledge with loose stacked blocks up and left with a bomber two bolt anchor. (140 feet)
P3. Wow! Another full rope length up what looks from below like a super low angle crack. In fact you get perfect hands in a flare, tips laybacking, and thin face moves. The low angle offwidth chimney protects with hand size pieces. The thinning cracks above take lots of finger and small nuts. The final face crux is out a bit from your gear back in the corner. You don't really want to fall here- partly because the fall would suck and partly because you've already come this far.
Descent: A long rappel leads to a questionable scrub oak laced with rat-gnawed old slings around broken branches in the Steep Space chimney. Another rappel leads to the ground. Be careful of stuck ropes.
P2. It gets real here with pretty sustained 5.10 climbing. Continue up the crack, placing pro before face climbing left under the roof. Continue up and around the roof on thin cracks (the jammed knot and nut anchor described in Handren's guide is gone). Continue up the crack, aiming for a ledge with loose stacked blocks up and left with a bomber two bolt anchor. (140 feet)
P3. Wow! Another full rope length up what looks from below like a super low angle crack. In fact you get perfect hands in a flare, tips laybacking, and thin face moves. The low angle offwidth chimney protects with hand size pieces. The thinning cracks above take lots of finger and small nuts. The final face crux is out a bit from your gear back in the corner. You don't really want to fall here- partly because the fall would suck and partly because you've already come this far.
Descent: A long rappel leads to a questionable scrub oak laced with rat-gnawed old slings around broken branches in the Steep Space chimney. Another rappel leads to the ground. Be careful of stuck ropes.
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