Stranded in Paradise
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Brian Clark and Ryan Ray, Circa 2003 |
Page Views: | 5,781 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Ray on Oct 23, 2010 |
Admins: | 20 kN |
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Description
Stranded in Paradise is not a high quality Rock route by most standards, but it was a blast and alot of fun to summit this awesome peak. This route if my memory serves me correct (its been 7 or 8 years or so now) follows the East or southeastern ridge which would be the face of king kong. Pitch one starts in the saddle between kongs face and the other peak and climbs up a vertical band of poor quality rock for approx 40 feet or so at maybe 5.8 or 5.9 and then hits a long sloping area covered with vegatation. More of a bushwack at this point. Pitch 2 went up through the vegetation and then up the easiest looking line on the rock to a belay stance wherever you can make it. I dont recall exact rating, but it was probably no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. Pitch 3 finished out the rock and topped out below the highly vegetated summit. Walk up to the summit for a fantastic view. Definately not a 5 star route, but it was an easy way to the summit of a fantastic peak with incredible views. A fun adventure worth doing if your stranded in paradise like we were.
Protection
A selection of small nuts, possibly a few small cams. The protection is very poor on this peak, and the rock is very brittle. Your best bet is to bring some 2 foot slings and sling bushes along the way.
We set 3 rap stations on the way down. They consist of a couple of five piece rawls and a few drilled baby angles...but i would probably consider these suspect by now due to the corrosive salty air, and the fact that we could practically drill the holes with our hand drill by just turning it by hand without hammer blows.
We set 3 rap stations on the way down. They consist of a couple of five piece rawls and a few drilled baby angles...but i would probably consider these suspect by now due to the corrosive salty air, and the fact that we could practically drill the holes with our hand drill by just turning it by hand without hammer blows.
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