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> Midgley Bridge…
> Super Crack Tower
Inception
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
Routes in Super Crack Tower
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A Marriage Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Consumation Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Hotdog in a Hallway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Inception T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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North Face Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pre-Marital Sex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Runaway Groom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Shotgun Wedding T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tofurkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turkish Bride T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Turkish Delight T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walk the Plank T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V3 6A |
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Window of Opportunity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windows Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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X-tra Marital Sex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | FADean Hoffman/Dustin Wildermuth FFA A. Jones/D. Bloom |
| Page Views: | 4,263 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Dean Hoffman on Oct 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1: 5.9 Hands to fists up corner
P2: 5.11/12 One of the best pitches I've been on in Sedona, Amazing. Splitter! First half probably 5.10 to overhanging fingers through two bolts to anchors on ledge, 5.11/12? Need some input on the grade! Spectacular! Feels like Annunkai at Indian Creek but steeper! (and unfortunately shorter) Possible to rap from here. (Very very cool 98% free hanging rap) These two pitches are definitely worth the hike!
P3: 5.11+/12- FFA Jones/Bloom Off balance, moderate face climbing into sandy crack system, place a bomber piece or two (.5/.4 camalot) beneath the bulgy block, some hollow sounding/looking rock just below the good jams. Clip a bolt and mantle the dirt clod! Don't be surprised if you feel like a monkey F-ing a football. Press it out and clip one more bolt and head up short crack to the roof. Build yerself a nice lil nest of bomber gear at the roof and get yer head on straight. Desperate laybacking past the roof will take you to the next anchors. Possible to place gear in this section, but strenuous. Congrats to Abel for getting the FFA on this pitch.
P4: 5.7 Very short bear crawl traverse to anchor, feels short but it will make sense on the next pitch and the rap
P5: 5.9 R Hold onto your sack, take one draw, one #4 BD with a long sling, one #3BD. Leave your helmet and anything else you don't need and head into the abyss. I believe this is also the last pitch of the NW face route. Expect a 50-60ft unprotected chimney! you can place the #4 at the base of the chimney but there is no gear til you top out! On this lower summit drop the number three into an obvious slot to protect the second and clip the anchor down by the lip, you will be directly above your partner at this point. (It is possible to summit the upper tower by climbing the 5.9r face as noted in the NW route description)
-pitches are relatively short, but linking not recommended everything is really right where it needs to be-
P2: 5.11/12 One of the best pitches I've been on in Sedona, Amazing. Splitter! First half probably 5.10 to overhanging fingers through two bolts to anchors on ledge, 5.11/12? Need some input on the grade! Spectacular! Feels like Annunkai at Indian Creek but steeper! (and unfortunately shorter) Possible to rap from here. (Very very cool 98% free hanging rap) These two pitches are definitely worth the hike!
P3: 5.11+/12- FFA Jones/Bloom Off balance, moderate face climbing into sandy crack system, place a bomber piece or two (.5/.4 camalot) beneath the bulgy block, some hollow sounding/looking rock just below the good jams. Clip a bolt and mantle the dirt clod! Don't be surprised if you feel like a monkey F-ing a football. Press it out and clip one more bolt and head up short crack to the roof. Build yerself a nice lil nest of bomber gear at the roof and get yer head on straight. Desperate laybacking past the roof will take you to the next anchors. Possible to place gear in this section, but strenuous. Congrats to Abel for getting the FFA on this pitch.
P4: 5.7 Very short bear crawl traverse to anchor, feels short but it will make sense on the next pitch and the rap
P5: 5.9 R Hold onto your sack, take one draw, one #4 BD with a long sling, one #3BD. Leave your helmet and anything else you don't need and head into the abyss. I believe this is also the last pitch of the NW face route. Expect a 50-60ft unprotected chimney! you can place the #4 at the base of the chimney but there is no gear til you top out! On this lower summit drop the number three into an obvious slot to protect the second and clip the anchor down by the lip, you will be directly above your partner at this point. (It is possible to summit the upper tower by climbing the 5.9r face as noted in the NW route description)
-pitches are relatively short, but linking not recommended everything is really right where it needs to be-
Location
West face of Supercrack Tower. Rack up at base of "Hotdog in a Hallway" and walk across ledge system to anchors. Rap first two pitches with 2 70's, 2 60's look very very doable but is untested! or continue up for 3 more pitches of pure mindbending excitement. From the top rap one single rope and second rap is double rope back to packs (this is can be done with 2 60m rope but can definitely not be done with one 70)
Photos
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