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Attack of the White Owl
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area
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Wide Owl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack that Never Was, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Taste the Biscuit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crack of the Future T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Owl Cliff Club, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Attack of the White Owl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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White Owl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Little Wing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Egg Cracker, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pocket Change S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubbles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Aquarium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Ward Smith |
| Page Views: | 3,341 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on Oct 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Impressive, very thin, techy face climbing up the middle of the shear White Owl Face. It is the bolted line just right of The Owl Cliff Club. From the ground it looks like there are no holds. Though it is a bit painful, being so thin, it is a very good route. It requires stamina, good beta and clear eyes so you can see the microscopic foot holds. A bit of a reach wouldn't hurt either, though a 5 foot tall climber has done all the moves, so no excuses.
Ward graded this 13b when he did it, but it has not had a known successful 2nd ascent yet, even TR, so that grade may be a bit sandbag. It felt as hard or harder than Dark Star at Rumney to me, with smaller holds though it is not quite as steep. Edit - It finally got a 2nd ascent in 2022
Wear your best edging shoes.
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