(C) The Imp of Nod
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | JMw, JFx, Asher Sussman 9/2010 |
Page Views: | 2,843 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | JMayhew on Oct 13, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
1. Stem the corner and follow the crack to where you can diagonal to another crack breaking the right side of a roof. Follow the corner to its end and belay on the ledge. (5.8 120)
2.Shift belay to the back wall and climb up 15 into a short squeeze chimney. Discontinuous cracks wander up to a nice belay ledge with a tree at the base of a short stem box. (This is to the right of a right-leaning orange corner and to the left of a major, steep gully/chimney.) (5.7+ 90)
3.Stem up onto a beautiful, left-leaning green corner. At the end of the corner keep angling left and up onto a huge ledge. Continue up into a short crack on the final, easy headwall. A little left of the top of the crack you may see the 2-bolt anchor for Dark Pope that you can belay from, otherwise make your own. (5.7+ 160)
Descent: Walk off back (will eventually take you to the parking lot), or walk off back, then down left into gully to base of climb. The top of the route (start of decent) is at GPS: 32.3973469, -110.6864889
Location
Hike around the base of the Western Buttress then up along the east face to a small, flat open area with a grassy crack (Grass Crack 5.6) heading up from the right end of the ledge. The next weakness to the left starts as a short corner into a crack, a small roof, then a final corner. This is the climb.
The approximate GPS point at the base is: 32.39738, -110.6858
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