Pendulum Route
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Steve Arsenault and Paul Doyle, September 1967. FFA Ed Webster and Ajax Greene August, 1976. |
Page Views: | 4,429 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | bradley white on Oct 12, 2010 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The first climb to go through this section of Cathedral. It used to start off of a branch near the cliff but the tree is gone. Now steep aid to reach the start on bolts of 'Highway 61'. Climb overlap undercling right to reach a decent belay (5.10a) Climb directly up groove corner ( 'Lights in the Forest' has the same start) to moves out left on bulges until ceiling crack is reached. Mantle crack at fixed lost arrow and follow crack to belay place (5.9+). Move horizontal short distance to the base of a shallow right facing corner and cramped belay. Do difficult thin moves up corner (5.10c-d) run out and move left under giant ceiling to a decent belay ledge. Climb the pendulum roof crack directly on aid (A-2) or move up left to traverse right inward above ceiling and jump to jugs for the (5.11d) free lunge. I couldn't bring myself to do the lunge so I ended up aiding it. After the ceiling belay higher up on a decent ledge. Continue up the crack to the top on beautiful jams to typical Cathedral Ledge wider crack stuff near the end.
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